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Friday, April 22, 2005

The Theory of Relativity

Hi everyone!!

I feel like it has been forever since I have been in touch with the world.. so much has happened since my last entry.
Let me start by saying that I am really, really happy!! My site placement is AWESOME!! I am currently in Bobo-Dioulasso (Bobo) as a stop-over on my way back to Ouaga. I have literally been all over Burkina this last week because I travelled from Gourcy in the north to a counterpart workshop in Ouaga, which is central, to Bobo which is in the southwest (towards Cote D'Ivoire), to my permanent site, which is north and west of Bobo. I met my counterpart in Ouaga last week, and I couldn't have asked for a better counterpart!! We had that workshop in Ouaga to get acquainted with them, and then he and I headed out to my site last Sunday, just the 2 of us... for the first time I was without other Americans, and I've spoken French 100 % of the time since then -- so I am glad to be writing in English!! Pardon any spelling or grammatical errors, though..

My counterpart is a 28 yr-old first year teacher named Jean-Luc. (Everyone just stop right now thinking he is my next boyfriend because he has a pregnant girlfriend who I met and who he lives with). He's so great, though, because he is not the typical Burkinabe man who sees women as inferior and should be treated poorly. He is super sweet with his woman, he is extremely thoughtful and careful with me, and he was just the biggest help throughout my site visit. I got to observe a couple of his classes, too, so that was a lot of fun and got me excited thinking about my classes next year.

I am replacing a girl named Takiyah, who is currently in Senegal having a tooth removed, so I didn't get to meet her, but I stayed in her place, which will be my place when I start up in June. It's a quaint little 1-bdrm on the lower west side of Burkina with a private outdoor shower and latrine and also an outdoor hangar (covered area with benches for sitting and entertaining). You lioke how I make it sound like an NYC apt.. but really, it is nice and I was glad to be doing things for myself to finally be able to test run how I will handle myself the next 2 yrs.

So Jean-Luc and I travelled from Ouaga to Bobo together on a 4 hr bus ride, we were met in Bobo by our school director/principal who is very nice, and then we took what is called a bush-taxi to my site. Oh my village is called Padema, pronounced like Panama but with a 'd'. The bush-taxi... ah, what an experience.... A ride that should have taken an hour or so took us another 4 hours because there were 20-30 people crammed in a vehicle the size of maybe a large pick-up truck, with all of our belongings strapped up top. 'Belongings' includes bikes, motos, other people, animals, luggage, etc.. so already this thing is unstable. Kick in an old engine and no AC and you have yourself a fun time.. we stopped a gajillion times to let people out or buy roadside foods or let people on, or because the engine was smoking, or because there was a flat tire or what.... good times.. anyway we made it and it was all good.

My site is so great because it is in the south of Burkina, which is cooler than the north, has fruits and veggies, is much larger than the village I currently live in with the chief, has more trees, has a river that runs through it, and just has a great vibe. And from what I observed so far, very few creepy crawlies... then again the rainy season starts soon so that may change. My colleagues are just awesome. I ate every meal with them every day, and they accompanied me everywhere and were just extremely welcoming and fun. There are 4 teachers at the secondary school where I'll be teaching, including me. My counterpart and I teach math, he also teaches sciences, there's a French teacher, and a history-geography teacher. We will all be teaching all grades, I think.. That means that for the 4 grades in the school, I will have about 200 students. yowza! It's cool, though.. not as intimimidating as I thought it would be, and teachers get a ridiculous amount of respect. The students greet us by crossing their arms, bending a little and saying 'Bonjour, Madame. Bonjour, Monsieur..' and if you are carrying something, they will immediately take it from you and walk it to your house for you. Crazy...

Being a female teacher I thought I might have difficulties, too.. but there is one other woman teacher in my school, I am replacing a female, AND the Prefect (pretty much like the mayor of the town) is a woman!! There are only 4 women in this Prefect position in the area I am in, and I get one of them! I met her yesterday and she's very nice and welcoming, too.

Let's see... what else.. oh, I named this blog Theory of Relativity because it's so funny how quickly things take on different meaning in relative terms.. For instance, I never thought I could utter these words, but I actually found myself saying "wow.. a washboard.. that will make doing laundry so much easier" and "oh, thank goodness they have pumps on their wells.. now I don't have to pull up the buckets 50 feet to get my water." And in Ouaga, we all went to a supermarket that was actually like a supermarket in the States. They actually had choices and fruits and veggies and boxed foods, and I really almost didn't know what to do with myself. If we didn't have dinner plans, I could have stayed all night and just stared at the shelves.

The stipend is the equivalent of maybe $3 a day, which is actually kind of living it up over here. A fancy meal in Ouaga goes for about $5 so imagine how far that $3 can buy in a little village. Everything is relative. And those jokes about buying me for a dollar a day.. honestly, now I see why that actually could be true. I bought some fabrics and had 2 skirts and a shirt tailor made for less than $10.

As far as language goes, I have been just fine in French and it turns out that the bits of Moore I picked up in Bassi are useful because Padema has a pretty good diversity of different ethnic groups and religions, so a lot of them speak Moore, too. I have to pick up the basics of Julah because it is the language more prominent in the south, but I am not as frustrated anymore about that whole thing.

I really don't feel like going back to Bassi, but I start practice teaching next week, so I have to :(

I am heading over to Ouaga all alone today, and my counterpart is sitting here waiting for me so I have to run. Oh, I am going to a Passover dinner in Ouaga tomorrow night that other volunteers have set up, so I hope you who are reading this are proud of me (this message is directed at my parents)

I love you, and thanks again for the emails and keep em coming!!! always make me laugh and cry. I miss you all soooooooooooo much!!!!!!!

p.s. I have been given 2 more African names in my new village.... Waramatu and Dibidia

8 Comments:

At April 22, 2005 11:16 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I feel like I'm studying for a geography midterm - can I copy off someone please?

Steph, we'll be thinking about you this weekend. We've been trying to teach Rachel the questions in preparation, but the uptake is a little slow...they come out more like "yertle lertle" and "ba", so she has a little work to do before she takes the floor. Speaking of which, she started swimming lessons last week at the JCC in BWater. A true little fish like her Mommy, but with swimmy diapers. Susie and I look forward to your posts - your like our version of Uncle Traveling Matt from Fraggle Rock...but, you know, you're a girl...and...you're not our Uncle...and...we're not Fraggles (although I think Susie would like to spend a day as Red)

Keep the posts coming! We miss you...

XO,
Kevin

PS - You're not alone on the grocery shelf stare - find myself frolicking through the aisles of Wegmens on a weekly basis.

 
At April 23, 2005 1:59 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey Steph, thinking of you and missing our telephone calls. I love reading your journal, it is like I am there with you. Things are well here, keeing busy with school and work. Just got back from Little Rock, Arkansas. It took 20 hours to drive there. I was out with Pete last night, joking about some of his techniques he used to train you. Keep up all of your good work and keep the stories coming. Missing you and thinking of you. Johnny

 
At April 24, 2005 2:48 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

His Steph, I see that you are adjusting well. The $3 per day would not make it here, it would mean no more visits to Starbucks. And getting clothes made for $10 bucks, WOW, as you might say, we can't get a pair of pants hemmed for that. All is well here in Florida, having a bunch of family over for Passover.

I now will be trying to find a map to locate where you are.

Arline and I are proud of what you are doing and we wish you well and great success. We will follow you through your blog.

 
At April 24, 2005 3:07 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Bonjour
Hi Steph,
Your mother and I are coming over to visit---Besides to see you-- to lose weight and to have some clothes made-- BIG INCENTIVE!
Seriously-- so very proud of you. Enjoyed hearing about your life there and loved your limerick!!!Passover Seder--- terrific!!Actually taking a break-- having 20 plus 6 little ones and making it real child friendly- sonds and fun and a little shorter. Been cooking and preparing for a few days and with the cleanup will need a rest!
All is good in Fla. love it!! Weather is wonderful. Play a lot- tennis-canasta- shop!!Looking forward to flying up in two weeks - Anita's retirement party and some time with your mom(and dad for meals)to run around at our old haunts!!
Enjoy hearing about your experiences - be safe!!!
LOve you
Arline

 
At April 24, 2005 9:52 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi, Steph!
It was great to get your e-mail and to hear that you are doing better. I thought about you yesterday morning, wondering how or if you would be celebrating Passover. I'm glad to hear that you were able to. We had 17 people for seder yesterday-I'm exhausted!

On the soccer front, Jillian's team is now 0-4, but at least the goalie came back, so Jillian can get out of that position. She just did a project in school on the Holocaust. She had to pack a suitcase as if she were going to "relocation camp" and write a letter explaining what she was bringing. It was funny because in the letter,she was referencing her sisters Bella, Jeanette and Dinah. There is a little extra pressure on her for this, since she is the only Jewish kid in her class and the only one with a connection tot he Holocaust, and her teacher is Jewish. But she did a good job.

PS Of course, when I read the line about Jean-Luc, I immediately thought boyfriend material. Or at least a reverse episode of Dr. Carter on ER. Sorry.

Stay safe and have a good time.

Love,
Marie, Phil & Jillian

 
At April 25, 2005 11:09 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey Chicka it is Lenka

The family has been asking about you and I see you have made some updates since i have been here last. Glad to see you are having fun. You almost had me ready to vist with the description of the apartment but you had to go ruin it. Well i will get there before you leave but just know you will have to show me to the nearest hilton or mariot porfavor. School is going I am almost done with a full second year 1 more to go and i am out of here. The boys are still the boys never known how to keep one and peobably never will but it is all good the thrill of the chase is so fun. And yes you read my mind becasue as yo ustarted to describe the french man I thought oh could this be a budding romance but i guess the pregnant girlfriend is a little bit of a hinderance but hey if you like the shovanistic way about him don't let a little thing like a baby get in your way(that would be a joke my frined). Well I must get back to the grind of studing for finals I can not wait till this stuff is over. Glad to see you are loving it out there. The Family says hello.

Love Lenka

 
At April 27, 2005 5:00 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

oh my little buttercup, how you are loved and missed by all. i am happy to read the excitment in your writing in this blog, i was a little worried with the last one. i didnt wanna have to go down there and bust a cap in some @sses, ya know?!
if a dollar goes a long way out there i can just imagine how far your smile gets you...
guess not very far. juuuussst kidding. its one i miss so much. and i'm saying that because i'm in love with you and i dont care who knows it!!!!

*just kidding. or am i?

um, right so i'd love to say see you soon but it would be a lie and i would just upset myself, soooo write soon and i love you very much. expect a letter, cause girlie i willll be writing, ya heard?!!! xoxoxoxoxo
desidoodles

 
At April 28, 2005 6:48 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

STEPPY!!!! You sexy beast! I miss you! I had some kosher cocktail sauce tonight in your honor. Kisses! Grace

 

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